My mother makes a great liver and bacon. Like many cooks who have spent decades on a sheep farm she is also a dab hand with a great mutton roast, scones, and sponge cakes. She can also preserve fruit at a moments notice. The highest compliment I every received for my own infrequent cooking attempts was from my son when I made some excellent gravy – “Well, he is Nanny’s son” he explained. Family feasts around birthdays and Christmas are common at my mother’s house.

One curious dish that makes an appearance amongst the roast veggies and mint sauce is a dish of fish pie. It’s not a typical part of most peoples’ ‘event dining’ but it is a regular for us in amongst the more high flying hams and legs of lamb. Mum’s humble fish pie is tasty, with lots of eggs and white sauce, and the right amount of rice and corn. More impressively, my sons, my nieces and nephews also love it.
When someone needs a perk up, they’ve been unwell, or they are passing through on their way to a cold, old student flat, a bowl of Nanny’s fish pie will arrive. When there are lots of different options on a laden table, there is always room on your plate for the fish pie.

I can understand how I like it, I’ve been eating it all of my life. I guess it is the same for the grandchildren. It’s a constant and comforting food. I’m sure that every family probably has a similar dish.
How ingrained are food preferences? Do we build them up over a lifetime of experience or do we arrive with inherited preferences? Perhaps a bit of both? It can make a difference.
Thistles, from the Cardueae tribe, have been introduced into New Zealand, mostly by mistake as passengers with more useful seeds. Like many other species, thistles have done well here and have established in large numbers and with wide distributions. One of the worst is the Californian thistle (Cirsium arvense), close relative of a nearly as successful invader, and a little more photogenic, Scotch thistle (Cirsium vulgare).
There have been many attempts to control the spread of these thistles with varying, but generally unsuccessful, outcomes. Ideally, it is great to have a solution that can work without too much effort on our part. A successful biocontrol agent can fit that prescription.
The green thistle beetle (Cassida rubiginosa) forages and lays eggs for their larvae to grow on species from the Cardueae tribe. This creates problems for health and survival of these plants. Excellent, a solution to our prickly problem!

Not so fast. Cardueae is a large group (over 2400 species with many natives in New Zealand). The last thing that we need is a beetle that chomps up lots of the species that we are trying to protect. We also don’t want a beetle that gets distracted by eating other species when it should be eating the target. We’ve been there and done that (see the mustelids brought into NZ to eat the rabbits! Oops). We need to know that this beetle is a little more fussy in its likes.
A Lincoln-based group, including Jon Sullivan from Pest-management and Conservation, have tested the preferences of the green thistle beetle. They have published in Pest Management Science. They selected 16 different plant species from the Cardueae tribe. Beetles were given the chance to eat each species either with no choice (plonk the beetles on a plant and see what they do) or choice (allow them to select between any pair that is presented to them).
Crucially, the evolutionary relationships were known between the different plant species. Ideally we want the beetles to only eat thistle species of interest and not just anything vaguely similar (just those that are closely related).

When given no choice the beetles tended to make the best of what was offered. When you are really hungry then that marmalade is edible even if you don’t like it! Give the beetle a choice, however, and they go for the species that is most closely related to the Cirsium species. In fact this was such a strong preference that the researchers were able to conclude that the green thistle beetle is very unlikely to become a problem for anything other than the thistles that we want to control.
The green thistle beetles are born with preferences for the type of plant that they want to eat and to lay their larvae in. These preferences allow them to adapt and specialise more fully to these plant species. New Zealand does not have any native Cirsium, or other closely related species. So the beetle can go forth and munch to their hearts’ content.
So, was I born with a hankering for mum’s fish pie? Well it is an old family recipe, so the preference for it probably has passed down through our lineage, probably as something that we re-learn every generation. Now if I get some grandchildren, I will have to make sure that they are exposed to fish pie at an early age!
Adrian Paterson is a lecturer in Pest-Management and Conservation at Lincoln University. He has a lot of preferences that he would like to explain!



